Leave Your Heart

As non-linear as Lombard Street, San Francisco’s path to greatness resumes.

The city at dusk from Twin Peaks.

San Francisco is one of those destinations that makes you feel younger, hipper and in touch. Despite the post-pandemic economic downturn and homeless crisis, local netizens march on, confident about their New World.

I’m more intrigued every time I visit the kids. My hometown of New York may never sleep but SF keeps evolving in a cannabis-tinged fog, providing offbeat attractions for the attentive traveler. Just blow past Fisherman’s Wharf to discover what’s up on your next visit.

The city’s netizens run on flat whites from The Richfield.

What’s Up in San Francisco Now

1. A great Uzbeki restaurant.

2. A free museum devoted to blue jean culture.

3. A deli backroom full of playable vintage video games.

4. A counterculture museum.

5. A charming movie-going palace.

Of course, you can ask me about more winter vacation ideas, but for a few of my SF highlights…

1. Uzbegim at 5120 Geary Blvd in Middle Richmond

Unassuming facade of Uzbegim, one of San Francisco’s best new restaurants.

The descendants of Silk Road traders who populate Uzbekistan reached farther than the Middle East to embrace the flavors of fellow travelers. At Uzbegim, an enormous wall mural dotted with Djellaba-robed men and their camels tells the culinary tale. Some leaned West to Turkey for its Mediterranean flair and others, East to China for fragrant rice casseroles. Uzbegim has it all, plus friendly service, modest prices and the large takeout containers you’ll need to revisit their huge portions at home.

The Vault Museum at Levi’s Plaza, 1155 Battery Street at Telegraph Hill

Cop the pattern of Kurt Cobain’s favorite Levi’s costume at The Vault.

Long a repository of historic documents, fabric samples, films and photos of evolving styles, The Archive is the muse of legendary blue jean maker Levi Strauss & Co. What’s new is “Amped: Music Icons in Levi’s Denim,” the opening exhibit in The Vault, their renovated museum space. Elton John, Freddie Mercury, Britney Spears and others show off their denim best while a video montage plays on one wall. Pin spots highlight the famous Levis 501 metal button fly, fabric appliques, pockets, quilting and patches making each outfit distinctive.

Beyonce’s look is a knockout! Did you know the superstar features a song entitled “Levii’s Jeans” on her Cowboy Carter album? Drop by whenever you’re in town because The Vault will quadruple in size to showcase other celebrities, plus 140 years of this hometown hero’s historic memorabilia. The Vault is open Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday only; admission is free.

The Counterculture Museum at 1485 Haight Street in Haight-Ashbury

David Cimino reminisces about The Oracle, a counterculture paper in SF.

After more than two decades running the Beat Museum (currently closed for structural repairs), owners David and Barbara Cimino now focus on younger changemakers. Their non-profit gallery space shares Carolyn (Mountain Girl) Garcia’s world view: “We really thought we could change the world. We still do.“ The largely two-dimensional collection covers counterculture movements of the 1960s, starting with the Beat poets. Glass cases feature newspaper clippings and images about cultural movements, from disillusionment with government after JFK’s never-resolved assassination (think: Jeffrey Epstein), to Black Power and the Civil Rights Movement. Explore the rise of feminism, AIDS and LGBTQ history, the Viet Nam War and more.

At our visit, David pointed out the display about Peggy Caserta, who ran a local store, Mnasidika, from 1965-68. The popular hippie shop sold clothes, concert tickets and LSD – all crucial elements of the cultural revolution. Caserta is credited with “inventing” the bell bottom because her hand-stitched flared pants legs (made to accommodate cowboy boots) inspired the Levi’s 646 Bell Bottom. Serendipity. It’s open Wednesday to Sunday, 11am to 6pm.

The Ham & Cheese Deli at 5501 California Street in Inner Richmond

Vintage games arcade at the Ham & Cheese Deli

This neighborhood institution is known for hefty breakfast sandwiches that satisfy everyone from vegan to carnivore and then some. Even better, the ca. 1960s backroom is filled with vintage arcade games, pinball machines and video games. Introduce the family to Ms. Pac-Man, NBA Jam Tournament Edition, Gauntlet, and others. Adults may appreciate the flat screen TV showing the day’s big game, posters and other O.G. distractions. Open 7:30am-2:30pm daily, 8:30am-2:30pm weekends, closed Monday.

CineLounge Tiburon at the Ark Row Shopping Center, 40 Main Street in Tiburon

Enjoy loveseats and ‘Spinal Tapas’ at the CineLounge Tiburon

Christian Meoli and Camilla Jackson have built a three-screen theater with enough comfort and style to get you up from the couch. To enjoy a night at the movies, book your reserved plush armchair or loveseat for two in advance. Choose from their Steven Spielburgers, pizza, hot dogs, popcorn, beer, wine list, or the specialty cocktails themed to the films showing. The seatbacks don’t recline and the footrest doesn’t go up; instead, you get comfort, good projection and state-of-the-art sound. And you’ll love the homespun commercials for local restaurants and real estate agents!

Illuminate SF Light Art Trail in SoMa and Downtown

If you’re in town before Jan. 31, 2026 for the annual Illuminate SF Festival of Lights, that’s great. But any time of the year you can catch the work of many of the country’s top light artists in San Francisco. Their creations light up the lobbies and exteriors of many major downtown landmarks.

Use our SF Light Art Trail Google map to walk or drive past the Parks at 5M, the Salesforce Tower and Transportation hub, the Moscone Convention Center and more. For $100, we booked a private tour past the public light displays and up to Twin Peaks. The city’s highest point offers fabulous views of the entire Bay Area in lights, spreading out from the Golden Gate Bridge.